Sea days

February 11, 2026
Two kayaks on a calm lake, with mountains and cloudy sky in the background.

We have several sea days before we arrive again in Cairns, Australia. This means we will not see land for a while. The rhythm of sea days is very different from shore days. There are a variety of activities you can participate in. Almost anything you can imagine is being invented as a result of the variety of people onboard, some of whom want to duplicate the entertainments they enjoyed where they used to live.



This is a residential cruise ship so a lot of the passengers are onboard long-term, meaning many months or years or the rest of their lives. The longest stay, if you “buy” your cabin, is 15 years. When Jeff and I bought our cabin that was all that was offered. Now you can buy a cabin for 5 years. Each circumnavigation takes about three and one half years. We are going to try to stay onboard for at least one circumnavigation. 


 Before the sea days began, we visited two of the islands of Tonga. At the first stop, people scuba dived over a reef right next to our ship

Two people paddle a wooden boat on a body of water.

When we walked into the village we didn't go further than the excellent farmers market where we bought local bananas and limes, two items the ship often runs out of. At the second island, a large city was accessible by foot. We spent the first day observing people, many of their garments were adorned with traditional belts of woven grass and the ‘man skirt’ was popular.

Children playing near a boat, next to a wooden building. One child jumps, others sit or stand.

The next day we walked to the government building. Because it was right there as we entered the city. Jeff thought maybe we could float our idea of the Parallel Currency to the Finance Minister, and get some feedback. This almost became an international incident. Our first challenge was to find where in the huge complex was the finance minister’s office. Every guard we encountered sent us in a different direction. Finally we came back to the first place we were directed to and asked again. This time the guard indicated the 3rd floor and he let us into the elevator. When we stepped out we found we were at the Prime Minister's office! An elderly receptionist greeted us kindly and Jeff said, “This is even better!” We were ushered into an elegant reception room and someone went off to find an official to speak with us. We introduced ourselves as an NGO. We were joined by a pleasant, slightly suspicious lady, who took a few notes and accepted our website card for further reading. Jeff gave her a summary of how the Parallel Currency could help the local population, (which is mostly poor and depends on the Catholic Church for schools and curriculum). She listened politely, then asserted that everyone is already provided food, shelter, education and healthcare in Tonga. But the students do pay a fee to the Church to attend the schools. “Very affordable,” we are told. Previously we observed some of the young girls dressed for school in uniforms with blue or yellow ribbons in their hair to differentiate the schools. They were lovely with long black hair and talking excitedly. One girl asked me if we were going to the reggae concert happening that evening at an outdoor venue nearby. I said “No, but you should go. It is for young people.” She answered, “We can't go, we are poor.” Turns out 100 passengers from our ship were planning to attend. Our conversation with the representative of the prime minister wound down and we were given bottles of water to take (it was a very hot day) and as we turned to go a young agitated woman appeared (also beautifully dressed in traditional garb) and said to Jeff and I that we were disrespecting them with our unannounced presence. We had not made an appointment! And to leave immediately! Which we were already in the process of doing. The nice elderly receptionist led us to the elevator and pushed the down button.

When we reached the ground floor the agitated lady was already there berating the guard that let us into the elevator. “He had nothing to do with it.” Jeff said, “We were looking for the Finance Minister's office.” She turned abruptly toward Jeff and said, “I’m not talking to you!” 

  At the end of these five sea days we will be in Cairns, Australia. Where Jeff and I catch a flight to Sydney and meet his doctor. Then an operation on Jeff and his recovery for 10 days and we reboard the ship if all goes well. We both have anxiety about this and try to not think too far ahead.

  Meanwhile I have been amusing myself by sitting on the deck watching and listening to the ocean. I wrote down this observation.


The sound of our ship cutting through the ocean, parting swells, pushing them aside from the bow, reminds me of my Cocoa Beach childhood, the hollow rustling of waves coming in and flattening on the sand. This experience, began my consciousness of a larger world.


Now I sit on this ship traveling across the Pacific on our way to Australia. I am not a child sitting on the beach with my arms around my knees, listening to a wave withdraw, watching the periwinkles dig into the wet sand. I am an adult in the last quarter of my life. 


I am circumnavigating the world. That larger place I sensed as a child. And I find it too large. I think I had a better idea of it then. When I first understood vastness and content. Now it exceeds my grasp. But hearing the sound of our ship parting the ocean comforts me and I let go.

January 27, 2026
The float of cloud drifts and encircles a mountain leaving just the very top, a pointed witches cap poking through. These islands have the most magnificent mountains. They brood around the harbors, snagging the clouds that pass. No doubt they have inspired fantastic stories. The cloud shadows create chameleon-like changes on mountain surfaces, making them even more expressive than oceans that amuse themselves by hiding what they contain; mountains are hysterical by contrast. Always looking for attention. “Look. Look again!, what about this?” They may hold a pose for a while seeming docile, then you look up and they have disappeared. White mist covers just a grey suggestion, then suddenly black silhouettes like broken giant teeth rise defiantly. So much animation, millions of years after volcanic upheavals shook these mountains from the sea depths.
January 13, 2026
Medical emergencies all have a similar feeling. Intensity, urgency, a changed perception of time; only events and human encounters progress, time seems warped, unimportant. After several sleepless nights because Jeff was having difficulty peeing and he was beginning to have pain, he went to the onboard clinic to get catheterized. There were three attempts with successively larger catheters. This was painful and distressing for him, though he kept joking about it, “this is not good sex!” The attempts were unsuccessful. He was given pain killers and an ambulance met us at the dock for a 10 minute ambulance ride to the hospital. Jeff is an 80 year old man with an enlarged prostate so he normally has trouble peeing. But this time it stopped altogether and there was blood. We are waiting at the hospital for the urologist. Nurses and a general practitioner have spoken to us in English. Very kind, polite, casual and patient. The urologist arrives and talks with Jeff. He is going to get the operating room ready and put Jeff out. Then he can do the operation. We wait in our curtained off cubicle Jeff is lying on a bed. A woman who came with her husband, who has high blood pressure, is behind the curtain to the left of us. He had collapsed. She is reciting the Lord's Prayer and Hail Marys over and over in an emotional whisper. She is crying. A young man is in the cubicle to our right. He seems to have broken his arm. It is all wrapped up in white gauze. Earlier a man had been stung by something and ointment was applied. A pregnant woman has come in. This is a modest hospital, very basic, two floors. They have what they need. A few flies buzz lazily around, but most are killed by the electric device on the wall. A very slight smell of urine is in the air. We arrived here about 8:30. It is now 2:00. Jeff has had an ultrasound, blood pressure checks and an EKG. Now he is in a wheelchair waiting for the nurse to take him to an operating room. The waiting room has about 10 people waiting. About 50 chairs in all. Not terribly busy for a Saturday. Light and darker coffee colored skin, attractive, rounded features and large expressive eyes set apart the native population. They are only a little curious about us. There is no rushing here.
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