Chapter Nine – US & Canada (6/25)

July 21, 2025

Seattle, Victoria & Vancouver


Seattle, Washington US, June 25, 2025

An american flag is flying in front of a cruise ship in the ocean

     The tide has come back in and the monstrous cruise ship that docked across from us last night has grandly departed. It was only here to off load passengers and on load passengers; 3,000 of them. Larger ships can carry twice that amount. From early in the morning to about 10 o'clock people were disembarking. Rolling suitcases, hefting backpacks, lining up for buses to the airport, catching a cab from an endless line of multi-colored cabs, single and in couples with children or without, a little weary, distracted, they are thinking about the trip home, the airports, as they leave their 7 to 10 day escape, everything included, a taste of the elite life. Here come the new passengers. Their steps are bouncy with anticipation, couples and singles, family groups, rolling suitcases, hefting backpacks, carrying totes, they are eager and excited. Expectations are high. Cruise ship tourism, a phenomenon of our times.



     The low hanging fruits. That's what we went for in the beginning. Our numbers were small; we had to share knowledge and resources to survive. Gathering clams and kelp in the shallows, picking the ripe berries, the wild asparagus on land, testing herbs and mushrooms on ourselves, hunting. It took a very long time but when all that was running out, on to new territory, find ‘untouched’ lands, learn from the native people then push them aside, more elbow room to build homes, families, pastures for sheep and cattle, cities, fortunes. Natural resources get harder to find, people dig deeper, clear further, find the limits, exceed them. The best and easiest has been bought, sold and resold. We pay to live. Some can't afford it. They are just lazy, and should work harder! No excuses, we are all in competition now. Survival of the fittest. An elite economist's interpretation of Darwin's research. The richest, by extension, are the fittest. Money is the decider. The better you understand and operate within the economic system the more fit you are to survive. You are given permission to live. Leave compassion to the religions, and their super compassionate representatives; that small handful. Some religions are also generous. They don't just listen to your grief and comfort you. They give you an out. Just repent before you die and all the creepy, insensitive, immoral, illegal stuff you did during your life will be forgiven. You can progress to that Oasis above, that Utopia, where there is no need for money, no one starves or is homeless. Sounds like something people thought was possible to do on Earth. Something they sang about in folk songs.

A mountain covered in clouds with trees in the foreground

Victoria, Canada. June 28, 2025


     Approaching Victoria, the sky is breaking apart, pressing light through the grey remnants of night. From a distance homes, apartment houses and office buildings scale the landscape like mange. But, once you are on the ground, walking around in the bright sun, this city is pretty. 

 Some places are just very pleasant. Victoria is one of these. Temperate weather warmed by soft Hawaiian currents. Gardens everywhere. Everyone seems to be a gardener. Flowers of all kinds, evergreens tastefully arranged against each other, every texture and shade of green. No weeds. I think I saw three dandelions. Roses. Roses, every color of red, pink and yellow. I smelled the roses, literally. And each scent was different. Some sweet, some sweeter, some spicy sweet, some spicy, and some with no scent. The people are nice too. They very politely refrain from speaking about the serious events playing out in my country. They have pretty money. The older neighborhoods still have some older homes, made of wood. Even the gardens around abandoned homes or homes that the owners are too elderly to care for, these gardens are still beautiful in their disarray. They were tended so carefully for so long that the plants seem to remember how to arrange themselves attractively. 

If I had known about Victoria when I was younger I would have thought seriously about living there. 


     “It would be wonderful if we could all just agree that we are all the same species.” Joe, a passenger on Odyssey.


Vancouver, Canada July 1, 2025

photo of donald duck at Disney Wonder Nassau

     People don't believe in Mickey Mouse anymore. I just wanted to say that.

     We are docked behind a Disney cruise ship. It has a gold emblem with Mickey painting the stern logo. It backed into the dock just before us, inching so slowly for such a long time I began to imagine that it was preparing to tip up and become a skyscraper alongside the many others that brood over the harbor. 


     Vancouver Is disappointingly large. In my imagination I saw it smaller. The reality is another big city. From the two cruise ships that preceded us to the docks, the Norwegian Something and the Disney Wonder, passengers poured out like ants into the city. Mickey Mouse headbands blending with the flow and being absorbed into the local throng as effortlessly as the Pied Piper vanished the children into his cave. 


     Canadian geese are flying over the city in V formation, six on one side, four on the other. There is a single wind generator at the very top of one of the mountains on the far side of the Fraser River. A path is cut through the evergreen trees leading up to it. It is alone up there, probably running something useful. Below is the busy harbor, lots of comings and goings, ferry boats, tugs dragging barges on long lines, seaplanes landing, taking off, pleasure boats race by, sail boats pass trailing their dinghy. Under a conveyor on the opposite shore, a pyramid has formed of a bright yellow sulfur, in the sunlight it glows as if lit from within. High cliffs in the background have snow in their valleys and hanging like a white bib from their peaks. 


     It is Canada Day. Planes speed on the water, lift and disappear into the sky. The theme is set. Things are done differently here. It is a comfort. Things need to be done differently, new solutions, more people thinking. They have constables, not police, they want to be helpful, they don't carry guns. It is nice to know there is a place where people want to help other people. And Canadians have a sense of humor. They shot off cannons to celebrate their day of independence. The sound reverberated off the walls of the city's tall office buildings.

A statue of a man painted gold is juggling three juggling pins.
February 11, 2026
We have several sea days before we arrive again in Cairns, Australia. This means we will not see land for a while. The rhythm of sea days is very different from shore days. There are a variety of activities you can participate in. Almost anything you can imagine is being invented as a result of the variety of people onboard, some of whom want to duplicate the entertainments they enjoyed where they used to live.  This is a residential cruise ship so a lot of the passengers are onboard long-term, meaning many months or years or the rest of their lives. The longest stay, if you “buy” your cabin, is 15 years. When Jeff and I bought our cabin that was all that was offered. Now you can buy a cabin for 5 years. Each circumnavigation takes about three and one half years. We are going to try to stay onboard for at least one circumnavigation. Before the sea days began, we visited two of the islands of Tonga. At the first stop, people scuba dived over a reef right next to our ship
January 27, 2026
The float of cloud drifts and encircles a mountain leaving just the very top, a pointed witches cap poking through. These islands have the most magnificent mountains. They brood around the harbors, snagging the clouds that pass. No doubt they have inspired fantastic stories. The cloud shadows create chameleon-like changes on mountain surfaces, making them even more expressive than oceans that amuse themselves by hiding what they contain; mountains are hysterical by contrast. Always looking for attention. “Look. Look again!, what about this?” They may hold a pose for a while seeming docile, then you look up and they have disappeared. White mist covers just a grey suggestion, then suddenly black silhouettes like broken giant teeth rise defiantly. So much animation, millions of years after volcanic upheavals shook these mountains from the sea depths.
January 13, 2026
Medical emergencies all have a similar feeling. Intensity, urgency, a changed perception of time; only events and human encounters progress, time seems warped, unimportant. After several sleepless nights because Jeff was having difficulty peeing and he was beginning to have pain, he went to the onboard clinic to get catheterized. There were three attempts with successively larger catheters. This was painful and distressing for him, though he kept joking about it, “this is not good sex!” The attempts were unsuccessful. He was given pain killers and an ambulance met us at the dock for a 10 minute ambulance ride to the hospital. Jeff is an 80 year old man with an enlarged prostate so he normally has trouble peeing. But this time it stopped altogether and there was blood. We are waiting at the hospital for the urologist. Nurses and a general practitioner have spoken to us in English. Very kind, polite, casual and patient. The urologist arrives and talks with Jeff. He is going to get the operating room ready and put Jeff out. Then he can do the operation. We wait in our curtained off cubicle Jeff is lying on a bed. A woman who came with her husband, who has high blood pressure, is behind the curtain to the left of us. He had collapsed. She is reciting the Lord's Prayer and Hail Marys over and over in an emotional whisper. She is crying. A young man is in the cubicle to our right. He seems to have broken his arm. It is all wrapped up in white gauze. Earlier a man had been stung by something and ointment was applied. A pregnant woman has come in. This is a modest hospital, very basic, two floors. They have what they need. A few flies buzz lazily around, but most are killed by the electric device on the wall. A very slight smell of urine is in the air. We arrived here about 8:30. It is now 2:00. Jeff has had an ultrasound, blood pressure checks and an EKG. Now he is in a wheelchair waiting for the nurse to take him to an operating room. The waiting room has about 10 people waiting. About 50 chairs in all. Not terribly busy for a Saturday. Light and darker coffee colored skin, attractive, rounded features and large expressive eyes set apart the native population. They are only a little curious about us. There is no rushing here.
December 29, 2025
Papua, New Guinea.
December 18, 2025
City of Koror, the rock islands
December 16, 2025
Bitung, Sorong, Ternate
December 11, 2025
The value of condensed human meaning. Rai Stones.
November 24, 2025
Boracay Island
October 20, 2025
Philippines: Manila
October 16, 2025
Taiwan September, 2025
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