On our way to Malaysia

We are hanging with the ‘Big Dogs,’ oil tankers, bulk loaders and container ships, in the Anchorage outside the port of Kampong Som, Cambodia. The completion of our bunkering that was started at the dock, will now happen while we are at anchor. During this time a much anticipated visit by an investor and possible new owner will occur. The original owners are having financial problems and want to cut their losses.

He spoke to the passengers for an hour in the ship auditorium. He seems like a nice guy and says he feels that the passengers are the biggest asset to the business. He is very impressed with how long people have stayed aboard, some for two years. He suggests there will be a transition of about 6 months or more and the plan is to sign paperwork this Friday. We shall see.

As the sun set, its pink echoed across the sky and appeared to the right, between the grey clouds. A ring of squid fishing boats has formed around us. Fishermen here are experimenting with different colors of light to attract the squid, not just bright white, like in Korea. Some of the lights are green, some light blue, looking very festive as the grey irregular buildings in the jaw of the shore are receding. We have pulled anchor and will reach Malaysia in two days.
Led by a pilot boat, we are entering the harbor at Kuantan, Malaysia. The wide curve of a rock jetty to the left, sweeps away from us, a yellow lighthouse at its end. Another jetty, to the right, follows the same curve. We enter between their arms. Two tug boats are waiting at the entrance. They come along to our port side and guide us the rest of the way to the dock. As usual, we are heading for a port terminal. Taking our place next to container ships, loading and unloading. The first point of contact for international commerce. And, more and more, the first point of contact for ideas. The goods are like symbols and messages from afar. Objects to be interpreted and their qualities absorbed or rejected.
As passengers, we are tiny impacts too, novel germs temporarily introduced into the system, deposited on shore and allowed to wander where we will and interact as we can. Humans, always on the lookout for novelty, spot our ‘out of placeness’ and decide what they think about it, whether they will imitate or not. What our presence means in their country.
Haze hangs heavily here. Schools have been closed for the past several days because the air quality is unhealthy to breathe. Indonesia is burning its forests for crop land. Farmers and agricultural companies burn forests and peat lands to prepare them for large-scale commercial farming, mostly rice, some for palm oil and pulpwood for the paper industry. Indonesia is the world's largest producer of the palm oil and it is used in more than 50% of processed foods worldwide. Indonesia has had a goal of sustainability for rice consumption in their country and recently they have reached it and will wind down the burning in the future. Burning is the cheapest and fastest and most unregulated method to prepare land for large scale farming. Often the fires go out of control and neighboring nations offer help to contain them.The haze affects all the countries around and a good solution has not arrived to control the pollution. There are so many elements involved and the needs of the people of Indonesia are uppermost. China has offered to help develop a sustainable energy future for Indonesia, and make their agriculture more efficient, for a price.

The tug is pushing us towards the dock. Tiny figures of dock workers line up, waiting for our lines. One of our crew coils a thin ‘leaderline’ that ends in a ‘tennis ball’ that he throws to the hands on the dock. That light line is pulled in and draws the heavy dock line it is attached to towards them so they can grapple it onto the mooring bollards. Now we are secured for our stay. Our captain oversees these maneuvers and manipulates them from an extendable navigation platform near the bow.
The port is where it is all happening, where everything starts. Like the ‘silk road’ of the distant past we are still doing the same thing, but at a much more massive international scale, and faster. The exchange of goods and the exchange of knowledge enters nations at their ports. It is the conversation of the marketplace, carried inland from the ports, in containers loaded onto trucks, unloaded and distributed to stores and open markets. This is an efficient and all pervading education that is free to everyone. Every item that is consumed or used has attracted the buyer for some reason. And they communicate back, by what they choose. More of whatever has been chosen then flows into that country. From snack foods and soft drinks to phones and electric cars, the marketplace makes ongoing communication and agreement out of objects.
Malaysia does not dig up and refine its significant coal deposits. First of all, because they are under their pristine, protected, biodiverse preserve and secondly because this area is inconveniently far away from refineries. So it is cheaper to buy coal from Indonesia and have it shipped by sea.

Malaysia is now working with China to phase out its coal dependency by 2044. The NETR, National Energy Transition Roadmap, hopes to achieve a 70% renewable energy target by 2050. Fossil fuel has been 90% of their energy mix, all imported. They export their high value LNG and burn the cheap imported coal, mostly from Indonesia, for domestic use. The renewable power future will be utility scale solar with BESS, Battery Energy Storage Systems. This will move solar from its present 2% in the energy mix to the dominant source of national power capacity. Chinese technology is being integrated to modernize Malaysia's grid and Chinese electrical vehicle businesses are helping to build its EV infrastructure.
We are being taken into the local city of Kuantan, on the shuttle. The Haze is so dense that there is less than half a mile of visibility. After leaving the port we pass through a massive industrial area and blocks of public housing, each unit the same and attached. Now there is a long stretch of undeveloped native growth, palms, varied tall trees and understory. Then a strip mall, a Seven Eleven among the small shops. We drive for about twenty minutes on a two way highway. Vegetation into the distance on either side. We pass a mountain being quarried for red soil, gouged out with a huge crane. Some mounds of it I saw piled in the port. Now things are getting more dressed up. Some flowering bushes have been planted on the verge. But soon we are back to industry, some of it dying. Not much traffic. No scooters, just cars. Workers rode scooters and bikes to work at the port. Suddenly we are in the center. Roads are intersecting from several directions. More factories. We passed a school for dentistry, then the Islamic University Hospital, Berger King, Subway, Dominos Pizza, Toy R US, and endless local shops with names in Malay. Some new buildings, some schools. More stores. Now there are billboards. More strip malls. More public housing. A mosque with a gold dome. A Chinese restaurant. Cars are driving faster. More public housing. Now we are in the middle of it all. And the shuttle is going to drop us here, at the huge super sized East Coast Mall, surrounded by the accretion of years of business going on, people making a living, everywhere massive buildings loom, intimidating grey concrete planes, pressing away the sky.
We decided to stay on the bus. We are not interested in the gigantic Mall and are wearing masks to filter the air that stings our throats and eyes. There is some relief in the air conditioned bus. We will use the shuttle trip as a tour of the local area. I write down some of the store names as we drive back to the port. Most shops are local with names in Malay but a few are in English, Blood Brother Barber Shop, Christian Cemetery, Muslim Cemetery, Marty Brown Convenience Store, Petronas Gas Station, Shell gas, Organic Baker, Madani Mart, Pusat Smart Reader, Todak Academy, 7-Eleven again, Barber Shop, for rent, for rent, for rent, Mohd Chan, a medical clinic, Samy Electrical, Sinar Mega, Bridgestone, Always Low Prices, Mr Pay, Adtec Kuantan, build your skill here.

Continuing onboard, we are now heading back to Thailand. A sudden change in itinerary. Passengers are not sure what to make of it and no more information is forthcoming about the investor we met.
The suggested signing of an agreement on Friday, has been postponed.










