Circling

The deep grinding of the anchor being pulled vibrates under the bow as evening comes. Random throbs of electric orange light the night sky, following the departure of a late afternoon thunderstorm. The dark makes Pukette, Thailand insubstantial; losing density and becoming like glass through which points and bands of light flash, transforming the coast into a rash of gleaming color.
We have been informed that our ship will move from its anchorage near Pukette and arrive at another anchorage, to bunker in the morning. There are rumors that this maneuver is because there is a chance the ship will be impounded by the primary lender (a bank) and Columbia Services, who provides the hospitality and technical crew onboard. The ship has to keep moving; they have not paid their bills so ownership may default to the people they owe money to.

During the day, Pukette presents a different face. In the past, US military presence made it a favorite place for R and R and this continues to the present. Clubs line the main street advertising exotic dancers, message parlors and pot. “Peace, love and dope.” Walking down the street we see many of these establishments that come alive at night. There are also huge permanently anchored ships in the harbor with clubs and restaurants aboard. Open fruit and vegetable markets are busy on the sides of the road between the clubs. Locals and a few tourists visit them in the heat. This is a main thoroughfare so cars, trucks and motorscooters are constantly moving through. People shift away as they pass. Here and there are tucked small shrines recently decorated with offerings.

Most of what was once exotic has been obscured by the influence of outsiders and modern economic/market homogenization. We are assured that the “real Thailand” still exists in the interior where the countryside preserves authenticity. Some passengers travel by bus to find the rural beauty, village life, friendly locals and expats. Some plan to come back and retire into the large expat/ elder communities that have been developing over the past 60 years. This is their contingency plan if the ship fails.

Our focus is to keep operating safely and responsibly as we work through the fuel challenges and restructuring. We will not be leaving (the general area) until an agreement and funding is in place… these decisions are driven by what we can actually do, given operational, financial and legal constraints.” This communication came from one of the owners and clarifies why we may be circling from Thailand to Cambodia and back in the future. Starlink won't be working during this period because they are saving money. We are advised to use SIM cards. Meals are now buffet style and served in one dining room for the remaining 200 or so passengers. Since a request, about two months ago, for a monthly $5,000 fuel surcharge from each cabin was announced, some people left the ship. This ‘request' was made voluntary after the fact. More passengers left a month later in Singapore when the owners said the ship would be impounded if several million dollars was not raised (from the passengers) to pay the bank, dockage, fuel and crew! Amazingly some millionaire passengers came forward and contributed this cash. From that point we have been able to travel to several more countries, Vietnam, Cambodia, Hong Kong, Malaysia,Thailand and now to Cambodia again, all because of the generosity of a few extremely wealthy passengers. The owners were dangling, during this time, an investor, a possible new owner before us and said he was doing his “due diligence.” This was the person who later came on board in Thailand and spoke to everyone enthusiastically.
Following up on the Haze emanating from Indonesia; Singapore has said it will sue the company(s) that own the properties that are on fire. This is allowed by an agreement between the local nations in extraordinary circumstances. Air quality in Singapore has been determined to be at danger levels and free N16 masks are being distributed to citizens. An excessively dry summer has increased the scope of the fires and the difficulty of subduing them. Some fires have spread into swampy areas where wild animals are a threat to the firefighters who are on foot. The smoke is so dense, obscuring visibility, that dropping fire retardant by helicopter is almost impossible and dangerous for the pilots. Though a ‘haze season’ is part of life in Indonesia and the nations that surround it, the extreme haze of this season has not been faced for more than 10 years. The rainy season normally begins in November and continues through March. This may bring relief.
We have left our anchorage after a partial bunkering and are traveling slowly to Sihanoukville, Cambodia. As we are traveling we are informed by the owners that the deal with the possible investor/buyer has failed. This port has been chosen for its cheapness and availability, as the owners continue to try to save money during negotiations with possible ‘new’ investors. And, by the way, “we need millions more to keep traveling.” Many passengers have lost patience, the stress has worn them out and they are busy packing and buying flights out of Cambodia to home or some place.

As we approach the dock, the white rectangular buildings on shore slowly enlarge, their different heights locked together like legos. Grey shadows appear and disappear as the sun casts onto their sides. The empty buildings in-between are streaked grey and black, like old bones. No attempt has been made to take them down. They stand unfinished. We are told of a Chinese building boom that was stopped by the Covid epidemic and has not restarted. Also the government has outlawed gambling casinos since that time and this was a big part of what China was banking on.
Upon our arrival we are welcomed with a dance. Seven beautiful young women dressed in gold, colorful silks and winged head dresses, dance on a rug placed on the dock. Their graceful exaggerated hand movements appear to be a symbolic language. Accompanying them is a sweet female voice and bells.











